A natural setting for a change from my city life
Today it's decided, I'll spend some time to find my next destination.
I would like to find a place not too far from Toulouse, in a natural setting, as a change from my city life. As a gourmet, I would like to be able to find quality local products and some open-air markets.
I love the atmosphere of the markets. The smell of the products, the hubbub of the crowd, the singing accents of the merchants, the pleasure of being able to taste a piece of local sausage here, a piece of cheese there, or to be seduced by a local wine.
A pretty bed and breakfast, "Alabrena".
So I set off in search of this singular experience and I asked about the surrounding countryside and markets. I had already heard of St-Antonin, a medieval village in the heart of the Aveyron Gorges. I discovered that it is only 1h15 from Toulouse. Moreover, the village is known for its beautiful Sunday morning market.
I am looking for a place to stay for a weekend at the end of April. I would like to be in a green setting. I found a nice bed and breakfast, "Alabrena", located on the heights of the village, in the hamlet of Ste-Sabine. It seems to be located in the heart of nature, with a magnificent view from the rooms.
Leafing through the destination magazine, I discovered that there's a market nearby every day: Wednesday in Laguépie, Friday in Parisot, Saturday in Caylus... I'm in for a treat!
I arrived at my B&B on Friday evening and was not disappointed. Carine and Didier gave me a warm welcome. I discover my room, tastefully decorated and very comfortable. They explained that I could have breakfast on the terrace adjoining the room, overlooking the garden.
La Guinguette de Cazals
For my evening meal, I have the choice: stay in St-Antonin where there are many restaurants, or move away a little. I choose to go to the Guinguette de Cazals, which reopens this weekend. The setting attracts me. This guinguette is located on the water's edge, in an old mill. I let myself be seduced by a small cocktail and by the guinea fowl stuffed with walnuts and its reduced port juice. A delightful treat. Then I go home for a good night's sleep before my next adventures.
Breathtaking view of the valley
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The markets of Caylus and Varen
Saturday morning is market day in Caylus and Varen. I go first to Caylus. On Saturdays, the market is held on the square of the old wash house. From here, there is a breathtaking view over the valley. I take the opportunity to stroll through the medieval streets, visit the church where you can admire the work of a great sculptor, Ossip Zadkine, which I did not expect to find in a small village.
My next stop is Varen, which has an equally rich heritage. The old ramparts, the deanery, the Romanesque church, the fountain... and its little market under the covered market! Fresh produce, butchers, bread... These are small markets, but with all the soul you'd expect - smiling people at your service, quality produce, soothing peace and quiet... The little extra is that you can taste the produce, here a few strawberries, further on a bit of cheese...
I pick up a picnic lunch and settle down on the banks of the Aveyron. Then I enjoy the afternoon with a good book. In the evening, I stayed on to eat at the Moulin de Varen restaurant. Not only is the setting sublime, but it's also a festival of flavours: tournedos of Aubrac beef with foie gras, pan-fried scallops with yuzu pearls, truffle risotto with parmesan and rocket, hot soufflé with black crises and pistachio ice cream... A real culinary favourite!
St-Antonin market
After a good night's sleep, I walk down to the village of St-Antonin, taking part of the PR4 which passes close to my B&B.
I discovered a St Antonin's that was different from other days, very colourful, very lively. You can smell the spices, the freshly roasted coffee, the voices echoing under the covered market... Most of the activity is concentrated in the market square, where you can even catch an impromptu concert, but the market extends much further out to the church on one side and the Place des Tilleuls on the other. Cheeses, charcuterie, aligot, fruit and vegetables, as well as jewellery, clothes, books... the perfect way to put together a varied picnic. I learn about local specialities like Jacquou, a cake made with walnuts, raisins, prunes and honey, and Rocamadour. The Ferme du Moulin de la Vignasse is the only producer of Rocamadour in Tarn-et-Garonne. I promise Clément that I'll be back to visit his farm, located in an old mill on the banks of the Bonnette.
Les Ateliers Occitans, a delicatessen in the main street, offers local wine tastings on Sunday mornings, sometimes including a meeting with the winemaker: vineyards from the Coteaux du Quercy, wines from Gaillac... I never thought I'd find so much diversity. Patricia advises me on the best cheeses to go with the wines I've selected.
I take the opportunity to buy some products for the house, so I will bring back a little piece of the Aveyron Gorges.
A wool spinning workshop
Small bonus
In the afternoon, I'm tempted by a wool-making course, which I've taken care to book with my hosts in addition to my stay. I meet Marie-Claude, a wool craftswoman who makes yarns from sheep and alpacas as locally as possible. I opt for an introduction to spinning wool on a spinning wheel and learn how to prepare the wool before spinning, how to use the wheel, how to shape a skein... At the end of the three-hour course, I leave with my skein of spun wool.
A single weekend was not enough to discover this territory where a real sweetness of life emerges. I will come back, to take the time to explore the other markets and other typical villages.
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